LOEWE: From Heritage Craft to Intellectual Luxury with Jonathan Anderson

Founded in Madrid in 1846, LOEWE began as a collective of Spanish leather craftsmen. Over the decades, it grew into a respected name in luxury, known for impeccable craftsmanship. However, the brand’s true metamorphosis began in 2013 with the arrival of Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson. Under his direction, LOEWE has shifted from a traditional leather goods house to a global emblem of conceptual fashion fused with artisanal integrity.

The Transformation Under Jonathan Anderson

When Jonathan Anderson assumed the role of Creative Director, the brand was in need of revitalisation. With a background in both fashion design and visual arts, Anderson brought an experimental yet thoughtful approach. He redefined LOEWE’s visual identity, introducing new typography, minimalist packaging, and art-inspired campaigns that challenged conventional luxury aesthetics.

Anderson placed strong emphasis on blending heritage techniques with contemporary fashion. He revived LOEWE’s leather expertise but presented it in radical new forms, from asymmetrical accessories to sculptural garments. This combination of tradition and innovation positioned the brand at the forefront of modern design while respecting its past.

Moreover, Anderson initiated a new cultural dialogue within the house. Through collaborations with artists, curators, and galleries, LOEWE became a medium of intellectual storytelling. The label no longer just sold fashion—it curated meaning, history, and artistry in every piece.

Visual Identity and Product Reinvention

One of Anderson’s earliest changes was reworking LOEWE’s branding. The revamped logo, developed with M/M Paris, echoed both medieval calligraphy and contemporary design, symbolising the union of past and future. It marked a decisive break from the older identity and signalled the brand’s new creative direction.

Simultaneously, the product line was overhauled. Classic bags like the Amazona were given new life through unexpected colourways and materials. The Puzzle bag, launched in 2015, became emblematic of Anderson’s vision—an architectural, multi-angle leather bag crafted using intricate techniques.

Menswear also gained prominence under his leadership. Instead of just echoing womenswear, it explored themes of identity, queerness, and subculture. LOEWE’s menswear shows began making headlines for their poetic and avant-garde sensibilities.

The Fusion of Fashion and Art

Anderson’s LOEWE transcends fashion by actively engaging with the world of art. In 2016, he launched the LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize, a global initiative recognising excellence in contemporary craft. It was not a marketing gesture but a sincere commitment to craftsmanship, judged by leading curators and artists.

This initiative reflected the brand’s core philosophy—luxury as intellectual pursuit. LOEWE collections often feature collaborations with living artists or references to historical art movements. From pottery-inspired prints to coats embroidered with 18th-century motifs, art and fashion are interwoven.

Even the presentation format shifted. Campaigns began featuring not just models but artists and thinkers, and showrooms were curated like exhibitions. Every detail, from a hand-woven scarf to a printed invitation, told part of a wider story crafted with precision and meaning.

LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize

Established to honour innovation in handcraft, the Craft Prize brought LOEWE back to its artisanal roots. Open to artists worldwide, the prize offers a platform for the preservation and modern interpretation of traditional techniques.

The competition is judged by an international panel, including curators from the V&A Museum and experts in contemporary art. Winning entries are exhibited globally, reinforcing LOEWE’s dedication to education and cultural exchange.

This effort isn’t merely philanthropic—it enriches the brand’s design language. Craft Prize finalists have inspired textiles, silhouettes, and materials seen in Anderson’s collections, deepening the connection between making and meaning.

Key Runway Moments and Campaigns

Since 2014, LOEWE has delivered some of the most intellectually stimulating runway shows in Paris. Instead of chasing trends, Anderson’s collections provoke reflection. Notable shows include the SS17 collection featuring fractured prints and wearable sculptures, and the SS22 show exploring the tension between function and absurdity.

Campaigns have also taken an artful route. Photographers like Steven Meisel and Tyler Mitchell captured LOEWE’s surreal tone through cinematic storytelling. The visual language is consistent: part theatre, part philosophy, wholly original.

These presentations resonate not just with fashion insiders but with a wider cultural audience. Anderson’s LOEWE creates pieces that invite contemplation—whether through the geometry of a coat or the craftsmanship of a hand-stitched bag.

Strategic Global Impact

Under Anderson, LOEWE expanded not only in creative vision but in global influence. The brand’s popularity soared in Asia, particularly in South Korea, China, and Japan, where a new generation of luxury buyers connected with its cerebral yet approachable ethos.

Retail spaces were also transformed into architectural showcases. Stores in Tokyo, Madrid, and Seoul blend minimalist design with gallery aesthetics, featuring curated art installations and custom furniture. These immersive spaces enhance the sensory experience of the brand.

Finally, digital storytelling became central. From curated Instagram stories to behind-the-scenes documentary features, LOEWE now speaks a multimedia language that bridges high fashion and global dialogue—without losing its artisanal soul.